Leather is one of fashion’s favourite textures. It’s
responsible for wardrobe staples (think supple handbags and biker jackets) and
statement looks (like this season’s quilted sweatshirts), so we invest in it
over and over again.
So when we came across Victoria Ledig’s Precious Skin
project, which re-examines the role of leather and toys with all our
expectations, we couldn’t wait to find out more about her work. Ledig reminds
us that leather is “beautiful, precious ad grotesque at the same time. We
sometimes forget that touching leather is to handle a former living being’s
hide.”
But it’s impossible to forget that as you look at her
designs, which use the animal parts not normally required for leather goods. A
bag, a purse and a make-up brush holder all become instantly recognisable as
animal remains, and the result is slightly uncomfortable for anyone who usually
prefers not to think about where their
patent clutch or leather boots originally came from.
It is not, as might seem plausible at first, a cry against
using leather in the fashion industry. Instead Ledig is reminding us of leather’s
dynamic quality. “I realised that the connection with what leather is and where
it comes from has been lost, which is a pity in my eyes” she told
weheart.co.uk.
The collection was her graduate project at the Design
Academy Eindhoven, and involved one very interesting trip to a tannery in
Dongen, in the Netherlands, where her fascination with leather had started
during an internship. We’ve never seen anyone work with ears or tails before, but she manages to give
them an eeriness that is fascination rather than repellent. It’s definitely
made us reconsider all of our pre-conceptions about leather and it’s
traditionally smooth, supple finish.
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